Snaefellsnes Peninsula
The landscape of the Snaefellsnes peninsula is extraordinary and very picturesque. The peninsula is 90 km long and between 10 and 27 km wide, so it’s easy to tour it within one day. It also has the nickname “Iceland in miniature” because it is home to many of Iceland’s unique natural attractions. You can find there, among others, unusual rock formations, lava fields covered with moss, waterfalls, caves, sandy beaches, cliffs, and picturesque fjords.
The active Snæfellsjökull volcano (1,446 m above sea level) is in the central part of the peninsula, with a glacier at its top. The volcano is located in the National Park of Iceland, which was created in 2001 and is stretching to the shoreline. The volcano’s last eruption took place in 200 BC, but in the 20th century, it started to be talked about again, thanks to Jules Verne. It is inside the Snæfellsjökull volcano that Verne has created the action place of his most popular science-fiction novel, “Journey to the Center of the Earth“.
The main road on the peninsula is road no. 54, which runs along the southern and northern coasts. Road 574 runs through the western part of the peninsula. Both roads are not paved along their entire length, but they can be travelled without problems for most of the year. An additional advantage of driving the main roads is wonderful views, empty spaces, and amazing wonders of nature.
On the northern coast, several small towns and fishing harbours are worth visiting. The most interesting places are Stykkisholmur, Olafsvik, and Hellisandur.
The Snaefellsnes peninsula is also famous for the numerous kinds of birds that nest here. Seals and whales frequent its coast, often appearing in the surrounding waters.
Stykkisholmur
Stykkisholmur is located in the peninsula’s northern part and is its main city. There is a large marina from which ferries depart to Flatey Island and the towns at the West Fjords. More information on ferries can be found at seatours.is
The tall basalt island of Sugandisey towers over the port, and a stone path leads to the top. It is worth going to the top of the island because it offers spectacular views. From the south side, there is an amazing view of the town and port, and from the north side, a view of the small islands located in the Breiðafjörður bay.
Over a dozen historic Danish houses from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries are located in Stykkisholmur. In recent years, these houses have undergone a thorough renovation, thanks to which, in 2011, Stykkisholmur received the prestigious international EDEN (European Destination of Excellence) award.
The European Union conducts the EDEN competition as part of activities supporting tourism promotion. The main aim of the competition is to choose European destinations that not only have an extraordinary tourist offer but also take special care of the natural environment and local cultural heritage.
It is worth visiting Stykkisholmur in the summer holidays because Danish Days are organised on the third weekend of August to cultivate the memory of the Danish settlers who once lived in these areas.
Stykkisholmur – worth knowing
Several interesting places in the town are worth visiting.
The Norwegian House was built in 1832. It has a shop with original souvenirs and a small exhibition of household appliances from the past. More information is at norskahusid.is.
Water Library. An artistic installation was created on the premises of the city library, the protagonist of which is water from Icelandic glaciers. Find out more at artangel.org.uk
Museum of Volcanology. It houses the private collection of Haraldur Sigurðsson, a renowned volcanologist who has researched volcanoes worldwide. For more information, visit eldfjallasafn.is.
The futuristic church of Stykkisholmkirkja attracts attention not only with its modern architecture and impressive size but also with its unusual location.
The church is located on a hill with a fantastic view. From this place, you can admire not only an amazing panorama of the city or the golf course but also the whole fjord.
Overnight in a charming guesthouse, Akkeri Guesthouse. The guesthouse has 6 rooms, each with its own bathroom. The owner takes care of the guests personally. While serving breakfast, she tells about the area and places worth visiting. For breakfast, it offers homemade banana bread and fresh regional products. The guesthouse is situated in the very centre of the town, 5 minutes from the ferry port. It is a great place for a short stay.
Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and the locals consider it the prettiest in the country. At over 460 meters high, it is recognizable for its conical shape and steep slopes. Because of its symmetrical and conical shape, it is often called a “church mountain.”
On the other side of the road (opposite Kirkjufell Mount) is the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, which has three legs. Because both attractions fit together perfectly, the mountain is often photographed from the perspective of the waterfall.
Olafsvik
Olafsvik is a town with rich fishing grounds and a large port. In 1687, it was the first Icelandic city to receive trade privileges from the King of Denmark. In 1950, after a significant modernization of the port, Olafsvik became the largest centre for fishing on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
The building of the former Gamla Pakkhusid warehouse, dating from 1844, is particularly noteworthy here. Currently, it is a protected monument. Inside, there is the “Pakkhús” Folk Museum and the Tourist Information Office.
A large SKER restaurant in the port also serves local specialties. On the spot, you can eat, among other things, fresh fish that tastes great. Be sure to stop there for lunch. Waiter service is also possible in Polish.
At lunchtime, port workers also dine here, so the place gets noisy and crowded, so it may be challenging to get a free table.
There is also a large supermarket in the town and 3 gas stations.
While in Olafsvik, you can also go on whale-watching tours. With any luck, you can see humpback whales, sperm whales and killer whales. More information is on the lakitours.com website.
Svodufoss waterfall
After leaving Olafsvik, it is worth noticing the signs telling you you are approaching the viewpoint. There will be a photo of the waterfall and a pictogram with a photo clearly suggesting that the place is worth seeing. From road no. 574, turn left into a gravel road towards the glacier. From the road, you will see a large parking lot on the left. There is a path from there that takes you to the waterfall. It is possible not only to reach the waterfall itself but also to climb to its top and see the amazing views from above.
Although the waterfall is only 10 m high, it looks spectacular surrounded by basalt rocks. It is a hidden gem of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, rarely visited by tourists, but it’s worth stopping by.
Snaefellsnes National Park
There are many places in the National Park where it is worth stopping, at least for a moment. There are parking lots and fairly good road markings next to each attraction. It is worth asking for a free map of the area in local IT offices. There are places marked on it that you will not find in ordinary tourist guides. For those who want to see “something more” – I recommend getting a map with a short description of attractions. It can also be downloaded electronically from west.is.
Below are some of the most interesting attractions located in the Park.
Hellissandur and Rif
Hellissandur was formerly the main fishing centre, and the Rif, 2 km away, was one of the leading commercial ports on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Today, what is left of the region’s former glory days is the fishing fleet that can be seen in the Rif. On the outskirts of the settlement is the Ingjaldsholl Church, the world’s first concrete temple, which was built in 1903. Inside, you can see a painting depicting Christopher Columbus during his visit to Iceland in 1477.
Birdwatchers often visit the area between Hellissandur and the Rif, which is one of the largest breeding areas for the Arctic Tern in Iceland.
In Hellisandur, there is the Maritime Museum, with the oldest exhibit from 1826. There is also a 1986 sculpture of the famous Icelandic artist Jon Gunnar Arnason, entitled “The Ship.” In 1990, the sculpture “Sun Voyager” by the same artist was created, which now stands in Reykjavik and is a symbol of the city.
It is worth adding that Hellissandur’s nickname is “Iceland’s capital of street art“. In this small town, about 30 incredible murals were created by artists worldwide. Murals are scattered around the area and can be found in Hellisandur and the Rif. It is worth stopping there momentarily and finding all the murals because these works are delightful. See for yourself!
Skardsvik Beach
Skarðsvík is a golden sandy beach considered a unique natural gem of Iceland. Unlike most black sand beaches in Iceland, Skarðsvík is reminiscent of the Mediterranean coast with its turquoise waters. However, it should not be forgotten that Iceland has wild landscapes and equally wild nature. When on the beach in Skardsvik, remember very strong waves and even stronger sea currents. In front of the main entrance, there are information boards in various languages that remind us about the possible dangers.
It’s best to plan your stay on the beach at low tide and not enter directly into the shoreline. Before going down to the beach, there is a small parking lot. It is worth visiting this place.
Saxholl Crater
The crater is located in the Snaefellsnes National Park, about 10 km south of Hellisandur. It is very popular among tourists visiting the peninsula, mainly because it is easy to climb to its top.
The crater is not high—it is less than 110 m high and oval in shape. It takes about 10 minutes to climb to the top. From its top, you can spot interesting views of the Atlantic Ocean, the moss-covered lava fields, and the Snæfellsjökull glacier.
There is a car park just in front of the volcano. The road to the top of the crater is also very convenient, as a metal staircase has been built along the entire route. Historically, paths trodden by tourists led to the top of the volcano. Over time, the slopes of the volcano began to crumble and deform. Several parallel paths were created that threatened to slide the slope and, therefore, also threatened the safety of tourists.
In 2014, a decision was made to improve safety and stop landscape erosion. For this purpose, a vast steel staircase was decided to build, the task of which was primarily to strengthen the volcano slope. The path is 160 meters long, and to complete the entire route, you have to overcome almost 400 steps. The path is 1.5 meters wide, so pedestrian traffic can go in both directions simultaneously.
Short history of the path construction
Construction of the path was completed in 2016. The black steel surface quickly rusted and blended with the red shades of the volcanic crater and the surrounding vegetation. Colloquially, this path has come to be called “stairs to heaven” or “orange stairs”. As volcanic craters are often called “the gates to the flaming flames of hell,” the official stair cage project name was “the stairway to heaven and hell.”
In 2018, the Icelandic landscape architecture company Landslag was awarded the Rosa Barba Landscape Architecture International Prize for the design of the stairs on the Saxholl Crater. You can read more about the project and the award itself at arquitectes.cat
Djupaonssandur Beach
Djupaonssandur Beach delights with its black volcanic sand and the unusual lava formations surrounding it.
Road 572 on Dritvíkurvegur leads directly to the beach. Finally, there is a large car park and numerous information boards. From here, you can go for a walk in several directions. The routes are well described, along with the time estimation we will need to cover them.
The road to the beach turns right and goes through the middle of the volcanic rocks. On the way, it is worth stopping at the Gatklettur, also called “the rock with a window”, through which you can see, among others, the Snæfellsjökull glacier.
Aflraunasteinar stones
On the way, the first curiosity is the Aflraunasteinar stones. The stones used to be used to test the strength of fishermen. Each stone has a different weight from 23 kg, 54, 100, to 154 kg. Those who managed to lift the heaviest stone could join the crew and work in the fisheries. The weakest had to look for another job. Today, you can pick up each stone and check your strength.
Djúpulón lagoon
Further towards the beach, on the right side, it is worth paying attention to the Djúpulón Lagoon (Deep Lagoon). The name of the whole beach comes from this lagoon. There is also a second lagoon, called Svörtulón (Black Lagoon), but it is hidden behind the rocks. Both lagoons were once thought to be so deep that they did not have a bottom. Today, it is known that both lagoons are less than 5m deep.
Epine trawler pieces
Another interesting feature of this place is fragments of the British Epine trawler scattered on the beach. The trawler crashed in 1948 near Dritvik Bay, and 14 people were killed. However, on the day of the accident, the storm was so severe that some of the bodies were never found. The parts of the trawler lying on the beach are under strict protection. They must not be touched, and the beach will never be cleaned. They are a memorial to those who died in the crash.
Pearl Beach
Right next to the “Pearl Beach” with black sand are water-polished stones called “Pearls of the Deep Lagoon.” Black stones polished by the waves of the ocean sparkle in the sun like pearls. They are part of the National Park’s landscape and must not be taken from the beach.
Rock formations and trolls
Many strange rock formations around the beach take on interesting shapes. Many people believe that some are rock-turned trolls, which were said to once inhabit the area in large numbers. The characteristic red rock called Söngklettur (Singing Rock) is a natural monument considered to be the church of the elves.
While on the Snaefellsnes peninsula, visit Djupaonssandur beach. Of course, worth remembering that this place is not suitable for relaxation, a sunbed or a bath. Also, access to the beach via the stones is quite physically exhausting. The ocean around the beach is rough, and the waves are very dangerous and can be unpredictably high. Several serious accidents have been reported here in the past. Be very careful there. When approaching the beach’s edge, first of all, take care of your own safety.
Vatnashellir Cave
There is an interesting cave in the National Park. It is over 8,000 years old, 200 meters long, and lies 35 meters below the earth’s surface. The cave is located approximately 10 km from the town of Hellnar. Tours are possible on the spot with a guide, and entry to the cave is possible only at certain times. Tour participants are equipped with protective helmets and flashlights.
You can read more about this attraction at summitguides.is.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula – what else is worth seeing
Svalpuffa
Svalupfa is a bird lover’s paradise. It has high and steep cliffs, on the slopes of which thousands of fulmars nest. The great contact with nature, basalt soaring rocks, and numerous volcanic formations around make it worth stopping at this place for a moment. The views are breathtaking, and the screams of birds and the roar of ocean waves effectively remind you of the power of nature.
Black Church Budakirkja and Budahraun Nature Reserve
The Budahraun Nature Reserve is a lava field that extends to the sea. It was formed around 8,000 years ago, after the Budaklettur volcano erupted. There is a small wooden church in the reserve. The church is black because it has been painted with tar to protect the wood from the harsh climate. The church and the adjacent small cemetery are surrounded by a wall made of elements of solidified lava.
The Black Church on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula is one of three in Iceland today. Budakirkja has recently become quite popular with the numerous young couples who come here from the farthest corners of the world to get married in this harsh climate. Besides, the black church against the background of a lava field covered with moss is quite photogenic, so it often appears on celebrity Instagram accounts.
The church is open all year round. Exceptions may be very bad weather conditions or a pandemic, during which the church remains permanently closed.
Bjarnarfoss Waterfall
Another great natural attraction is at the intersection of road no. 54 and road no. 574. The Bjarnarfoss waterfall is visible far from the distance. Interestingly, viewed from a faraway distance, it looks quite inconspicuous, but when you get closer to it, it causes admiration.
A large car park is nearby, and a narrow path leads to the waterfall.
Parking lot location: 64°50’51.0″ N 23°24’18.5″W
The Bjarnaá (Bear) River falls from the 566 m high basalt mountain called Mælifell, creating a waterfall over 80 meters high. The waterfall is divided into two parts, separated by a rock shelf. Approximately up to the level of this edge, you can climb the path along the waterfall. From this place, there is a wonderful view of the surrounding area. The waterfall itself is also impressive, especially the view of the Bjarnaa River – at the end of the winding road, it flows straight into the ocean.
It is worth stopping here.
Langaholt
End your stay on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with an overnight stop in Langaholt village at the Langaholt Guesthouse. It is a great place to relax, away from civilization, surrounded by beautiful nature, right on the ocean’s shore. View of the volcano and Snæfellsjökull glacier from the windows. It is worth ordering the “catch of the day” for dinner.
Iceland, my other post
I encourage you as well to read my other posts about Iceland
- Akureyri – Northern Iceland
- Diamond Circle North Iceland
- East Iceland – the land of puffins
- Golden Circle – treasures of Iceland
- Húsavík, Iceland – time for whales
- Iceland – tailor-made travel plan
- Iceland in winter – how to organise the trip
- Iceland photos
- Reykjanes Peninsula, South West Iceland
- Reykjavik Iceland’s capital city
- South Coast of Iceland
- Troll Peninsula North Iceland
- Winter in Iceland travel plan