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Kyoto and Kansai region

Kyoto and Kansai region

Kansai is one of the regions in Japan with the wealthiest legacy. Its location certainly had the main impact on it. It is in the centre of the archipelago and has access to three seas (the Sea of Japan, the Pacific Ocean, and the Seto Inland Sea). Numerous plains connect the region with fertile soil. Kansai is also the cradle of Japanese civilization.  Nara and Kyoto have been imperial capitals for over 1000 years, so the number of monuments is stunning. It is also the second-largest industrial centre in the country. More than 20% of the entire population of Japan lives here (this percentage is still growing due to the region’s high attractiveness). Kansai is also one of the most prosperous areas for baseball in Japan.

Why Kyoto?

Kyoto is sixth in terms of population in Japan. It was in the past and is still now an essential point on the tourist map. Almost 1600 Buddhist temples, 400 Shinto shrines, and more than 200 gardens are found here. To see it all, it is best to leave here. During the three-day visit, there is no way to see all of this, half of it or just the most critical places. Nearly 20% of all Japanese National Treasures are located in Kyoto. There are also about 20 objects listed on the World Heritage Sites of UNESCO.

The added value of this place is that for more than 10 centuries, Kyoto has served as a capital. It has also avoided earthquakes, and (based on the US government level decisions, and final agreement between US President H.S. Truman and his advisers), bombing during World War II. Kyoto was then considered a city of high cultural significance for Japan and the rest of the world. That was the reason why the final destination for the atomic bombing (almost at the last moment) was changed from Kyoto to Hiroshima and Nagasaki (Hiroshima source).

Kyoto today

Kyoto is considered a modern city, inhabited by 1.5 million people. In this city, you can find a mix of modernity – characteristic of thriving Japanese cities – with tradition. There are 37 universities in the city, making it fast-growing. Kyoto residents are more modern and less formal than Tokyo, but many wear traditional kimonos. Here, you can walk down the streets of the old district of Gion, where you can find the oldest okiya (geisha houses) in the city and ochaya (teahouses), where geishas entertain their guests.

The city can also boast of traditional and sophisticated craftsmanship. Besides, it is an important place on the political map of the world—in 1997, the famous “Kyoto Protocol” was signed here. The Protocol is an international agreement linked to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, which commits its Parties to set internationally binding emission reduction targets (source: UNFCCC).

In the post below, I will present those places we visited ourselves during our visit to Kyoto but will not write about those places that should be seen. My advice: Before you come to this place, please reflect first on what interests you most and plan your trip accordingly. Do not plan your trip according to the “must-see” places list but just based on your wish list.

Main Train Station in Kyoto

The new railway station was opened in 1997, on the 1200th anniversary of the founding of Heian (“the capital of peace”, today’s Kyoto). The train station is now fully adapted to modern and ultra-fast Shinkansen train requirements. It is also used by local trains and the metro. The new building is surprising because of its contemporary design, size, imagination, and the greatness of the architect (Hara Hiroshi) who planned its shape. Its enormous dimensions, however, fit perfectly into the surroundings and history of the city. The vast atrium (27 meters wide, 60 meters high and 470 meters long) is where it is worth starting your sightseeing tour of Kyoto, as it is an attraction itself.

You can get through almost vertical escalators at the top of the main hall, which will take you up to the 12th floor. A garden and a glazed wall at the top of the roof offer a great view of the city. On one side of the atrium is a luxury hotel; on the other, there is a shopping centre and numerous restaurants. Strolling through the tunnel (“Skyway tunnel”) at the height of the 11th floor is a pleasant reward for this tour. Glazed walls in the tunnel guarantee the best views of the city and the opportunity to look closely at the “Kyoto Tower”.

The entrance to the tunnel is open between 10.00 a.m. and 10.00 p.m., and free admission.

Update: As of April 1, 2024, the name of Kyoto Tower has been changed to “Nidec Kyoto Tower.”

Gion district

Gion is the oldest district in Kyoto, inhabited by geishas and future geishas – maiko. In the best times (at the beginning of the 19th century), over 3 thousand geisha were working in about 700 tea houses. Nowadays, the streets are full of tourists – there are crowds and noise, but it is still worth visiting because it is fascinating. The cobbled streets, old wooden tea houses and red lanterns are the main characteristics of the district. When strolling through the streets, you can spot many geisha and residents wearing traditional kimonos.

From Kyoto’s central railway station, you can get to Gion by Keihan line train (two stations), but it takes about 20 minutes (1.2 km) to get there on foot. On the way, there is the Kamo riverbed – in springtime, with cherry blossoms growing on both sides.

You should have a map or GPS device on the spot because finding a theatre building takes some time, and it is easy to get lost.

Theatre “Gion Corner”

The “Gion Corner” theatre organizes shows for tourists (including Japanese tourists), where you can learn about seven areas of traditional Japanese art. The show takes place in Yasaka Hall, next to Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater, in the heart of Gion. Performances are organized by the Kyoto Traditional Musical Art Foundation “Ookini Zaidan”.

Shows are held twice a day, at 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. The admission fee is 3150 yen (about $28$), but on the theatre website, you can get discount coupons, so the entrance fee will cost 2500 yen (about $23$). The show lasts 45-50 minutes, and you can take pictures the entire time.

Program. During the show, you will find out about the following:

  • Chado

Traditional tea ceremony. The custom of making tea and tasting it was born in China in the 8th century. In Japan, this custom was brought by Buddhist monks in the 12th century, who used it to prevent drowsiness during their long hours of meditation. The popularity of tea drinking among the people began in the early 14th century.

  • Koto

The Koto, a thirteen-stringed instrument (a kind of harp), was imported from China about 1300 years ago. It is also used in contemporary music.

  • Kado

The art of flower arranging. In Japan, people have put flowers in bottles or vases since the 6th century, around 1500 years ago, when Buddhism first came from China. There has been a custom of using flowers to decorate statues of the Buddha and graves of the ancestors. In the Meiji Period (19th century), the Moribana style was newly added and developed as one of the traditional arts.

  • Gagaku

Gagaku is also called “elegant music” or court music. These words also describe classical dance, singing and traditional instrumental music. This art was born in China between the 7th and 9th centuries when China was the cultural centre of all Asia. In Japan, it arrived in the 8th century. In China, this type of music has not survived; in Japan, it was played at the imperial court banquets and sacred rites in shrines and temples. Over time, the music has been modified and adapted to suit the taste of the Japanese people; as a result, it is now truly a Japanese classical art form.

  • Kyogen

Kyogen is a kind of comic drama play performed as an interlude for Noh plays and spoken in the everyday language of the time. Noh is a specific form of Japanese theatre. It uses simple but precise tools of stage art: gestures, movement, costumes, facial expressions and sometimes masks. The characteristic of this theatre was that only men could play in it. During the show, actors often speak in traditional Japanese poetry language, which is incomprehensible to the Japanese themselves. However, the show is awe-inspiring and funny. Before the show, there is a program distributed, where this show is described, so it is worth reading before the show begins.

  • Kyomai

Kyoto-style dance. There are two types of Japanese dance. The first is called Odori and dates back to the Edo era (17th century). It was primarily used in kabuki theatre. It was started in 1603 by a woman, Izumo no Okuni, who began performing and presenting a new dance art style on the Kamo River’s dry riverbed. Over the centuries, kabuki theatre has undergone many changes to survive in contemporary art. In 2005, the Kabuki theatre was declared a masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. In 2008, it was placed on the non-material heritage list of UNESCO, which currently has 90 such masterpieces worldwide.

The second dance is called Mai, and its place distinguishes it. This art was part of the Noh Theater and was played primarily in small private rooms rather than on the stage. Kyomai—the Kyoto style—was born in the 17th century and developed mainly at the imperial court banquets as an elegant and dignified art. This dance is primarily performed by maiko dancers and by the geisha themselves.

  • Bunraku

Japanese puppet play. During the performances, the narration is enriched by the accompaniment of the shamisen (a Japanese three-stringed musical instrument). Bunraku’s art was born in the 17th century in Osaka and was mainly displayed on the street. It has gained popularity because of the high availability of merchants and sellers of this art form and the simple message. The spectacles presented simple and easy-to-understand stories using illustrations. Over time, the illustrations have been replaced by dolls that are now quite large (up to 4/5 of the height of an adult male).

In 2003, Bunraku was proclaimed a masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity and, in 2008, placed on UNESCO’s non-material heritage list.

The theatre program also describes this Bunraku show well, so it is worth reading it before the show starts.

On the way back from the theatre, it is worthwhile to stroll through the evening streets of the Gion district. Despite numerous pedestrians and dark streets, this area allows you to imagine how it looked centuries ago and feel its atmosphere.

Toji Temple

The Toji Temple, built in 794 in the east of the city for defensive purposes, is part of a complex that has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The most characteristic feature of this place is the Five-Story Pagoda, the highest in Japan (55 m/187 feet). The present pagoda was built in 1644, but the first one was built in the 9th century. Unfortunately, the original pagoda burned down four times, including once after being struck by lightning. But none of them was knocked down by an earthquake.

The interlocked parts of the pagoda absorb the vibrations caused by an earthquake. The force of the vibrations is gradually damped as they move to the higher parts of the pagoda. Also, each level moves independently of the others, in a motion known as the “snake dance.” This further absorbs and dampens the energy of an earthquake. Since the 17th century, it has been a National Treasure.

Kondo and Kodo

The Toji complex is also home to the Kondo (Main Hall) building. The original building was built in the 8th century, but it burned down in 1486. A new building was built in 1603. Inside is a statue of Buddha, known as the Buddha of Medicine, and the status of two Bodhisattvas (of the Sun and the Moon).

The Kodo stands in the very centre of the precincts of the Toji. The original building was built around 835, according to records. Unfortunately, it was damaged by typhoons and earthquakes and has been repaired several times. The building was built in 1491 and retains its original style of architecture. Inside, there are 21 statues, placed according to a mandala that is central to Shingon Buddhism. The statues are classified into four groups:

  • Nyorai, who are forms of Buddhas who have reached enlightenment
  • Bodhisattvas, who have put off enlightenment to save people with mercy
  • Myoo (Wisdom Kings), who lead people with austerity
  • Ten (Tenbu or guardians) surround and protect the Nyorai, Bodhisattvas and Myoo.

The temple buildings have many magnificent treasures such as statues, carvings, paintings and artworks.

The admission fee is 500 yen ($4,5), but during special religious events, the admission ticket can cost 800 yen (S7,5). The entrance is available daily, between 8.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. More info can be found on the To-ji Temple in Kyoto website (eng version).

Please note that taking pictures is not allowed within the temple or inside all the visited buildings!

On the 21st of each month, a flea market called Mieku (Kobo-ichi market) is in the temple area and nearby park. You can buy new and used items here, including traditional kimonos, antiques, toys, clocks, sculptures, food and flowers. There is also a Garakuta-ichi – an antique market- organised on the first Sunday of every month.

Kinkakuji Temple

Kinkakuji, also called “Golden Pavilion”, is so beautiful that it seems to be almost unreal.  In 1397, the temple was founded at the behest of the monk Rokuon, who became a monk after years of being a shogun. There are three floors, two of which are covered with gold leaf. The “Golden Pavilion” stands on the shore of the lake, surrounded by a beautiful park and mountainous summits. Although the temple survived the civil war, earthquakes and typhoons for centuries, in 1950, it was set on fire by a mentally ill monk and destroyed. The pavilion was rebuilt. On its roof is now a statue of a golden Chinese phoenix, symbolizing the temple’s rebirth from the ashes.

Kinkakuji is open daily from 9.00 a.m to 5.00 p.m. From Kyoto Central Station, take bus 205 (about 30 minutes) to the Kinkakuji-mae stop. The entry fee is 400 yen ($3.6).

Please note that the Kinkakuji temple is one of the most visited places in Kyoto. Crowds of visitors are everywhere, so the place is cramped and loud. Taking a picture of the temple without people in the background seems to be a miracle. But please wait patiently for the right moment and try to take a picture.  You will notice that the golden shades of the pavilion, reflected in the lake surface, make every photo look like a million dollars 😊.

Ginkakuji Temple

Contrary to expectations, Ginkakuji, called the “Silver Pavilion,” is not silver. Despite the original plans, silver flakes were never added there. This two-story pagoda is much smaller and more modest than the “Golden Pavilion” (despite being modelled on it). It does not impress as much, and there are fewer tourists there.

The temple was built in 1492 as a villa for the retired Shogun Yoshimasa Ashikaga (his grandfather built the “Golden Pavilion”). The pavilion was not adorned with silver, as the shogun propagated a thrifty lifestyle. Ginkakuji has become the centre of the contemporary Higashiyama culture. It was a culture open to ordinary people and available in parks and streets. Based on these assumptions, the art of tea ceremony, floral arrangement, Noh theatre, garden design, architecture and poetry has been established and developed.

After Yoshimasa’s death in 1490, the villa’s function was changed to a Zen temple. The pavilion itself remained undamaged until today. Its bungalow survived all the dangers, but in 2010, it was completely restored and got a new roof. The structure of the building has been strengthened and adapted to the safety requirements during earthquakes.

Ginkakuji garden

Today, it is worth visiting this place, although the interiors are not open to the public. In addition to the Silver Pavilion, there are other buildings, a beautiful moss-covered hillside garden, a lake, and a sand garden called the Silver Sand.” The sand garden is carefully brushed every morning, and the cone sprinkled on its centre is shaped like a Fuji Mountain. The garden is quiet and peaceful.

At the end of the trip, you should climb to the top of the hill. The path leads through a bamboo forest covered with moss. Small bridges, streams, and colourful flowers are also on the way. The mountain view at the end of the route extends to the Ginkakuji Temple and the city.

Ginkakuji can be reached by bus 204 (from the “Golden Pavilion” about 20 minutes). You can also get there from the central railway station by bus number 5, 17 or 100 (about 40 minutes), the Ginkakuji-mae stop. Open daily from 8.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., the entrance fee is 500 yen (4,5$).

Fushimi Inari

Fushimi Inari existed here long before the country’s capital was moved to Kyoto, more than 1,000 years ago. This is an unusual and very popular place of religious worship. The shrine sits at the base of a mountain (also named Inari), which is 233 meters high. It includes trails up the mountain to many smaller shrines that span 4 kilometres. It takes approximately 2 hours to walk up. Over 30 thousand Torii gates are standing on the hill road.

The Uka no Mitama no Mikoto (Inari) is the deity inhabiting this hill.  Its role is to take care of the rice and the fields. Since the 8th century, the faithful have donated to the goddesses at the Torii gate. They engraved torii with their names, hoping the goddess would save their family from hunger and the crops would be abundant. Today, all torii gates along the trail are donations by individuals or companies. Since early Japan, Inari has been seen as the patron of businesses, merchants, and manufacturers.

Over time, the status of foxes appeared on the hill, believing that the foxes could protect rice stocks from rodents.

Fushimi Inari – sightseeing

To walk up Inari hill, you should wear comfortable shoes suitable for the place. The road to the mountain is long and challenging. Along the way, several rest areas have beautiful views of the city. It is also possible to buy something to drink or eat there. There are also several small cemeteries and shrines on the hillside. Some are in the middle of the forest, and some are on a mountain slope or by a lake. This place is magical and worth spending even a few hours here. There are also many people visiting this place during sunset. If you are also interested in it, please be aware that after dusk, it gets completely dark on the paths of the hills.  If you are there, you should be very careful when going down.

You need to know that buying and placing the torii gate on the hill is very expensive, but many people are willing to do that. The smallest torii gate costs 175,000 yen ($1,6k), and the average cost is about 400.000 yen ($3,6k). The biggest one can be worth over 1,300.000 yen (almost $12k).

How to get there? The easiest way is to take the “JR Nara” train (from Kyoto Central Station), which has two stops (5 minutes), including the Inari stop. Admission is free and open 24/7.

Fox Families – Kuchiire Inari Okami

On the spot, Kuchiire Inari Okami dolls—Fox Families—are offered for sale. Among the gods responsible for the harvest (Inari Okami) are also the deities responsible for matchmaking and merging people. These deities have been worshipped here for centuries. People often come to ask for help in finding a business partner, a partner in marriage, or employment.

To fulfil their wishes, those who pray need to pray to three deities: a doll representing a husband, a wife and a child. Then, they need to buy those three figurines and take them home. Once the wish is fulfilled, the figurines can be donated to the temple or kept at home as souvenirs. These figurines, which are returned to the temple after the wish is fulfilled, can be found here, standing on stone boulders.

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