The Japanese proverb says: “The one who did not see Nikko does not know what the true beauty is.”
Nikko is a small town in Tochigi Prefecture, about 140 km from Tokyo. The literal translation means “sunlight”. Surrounded by mountains, the National Park (Nikko Kokuritsu Koen) has attracted priests and pilgrims for centuries. It is estimated that the first buildings were built about 1200 years ago, along the Daiya River, at the foot of Nantai Mountain. Many sanctuaries and temples were erected here. Rinno (766 years old) and Chuzen (784 years old) are the most important.
Nikko is also the seat of kami (Shinto deities), which became the burial place of the first shogun of the Tokugawa family. The mausoleum, which was built for him in the Tosho-gu temple, is the most beautiful Japanese mausoleum. Outside of Tosho-gu Temple, Nikko is also home to the beautiful Futarasan-jinja Temple (dedicated to the gods of the mountains). In 1999, the temples Tosho-gu, Futatarsan-jinja and Rinno were listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
All of them are located close to each other.
How to get from Tokyo to Nikko
From Tokyo, Nikko can be reached by train. We have chosen Shinkansen Yamabiko to Utsunomiya (53 mins) and then the charming historic Nikko Train (49 mins). From Nikko Station, there are a few tourist buses available. Heritage Bus (Nikko Tobu Bus) No.7, four stops – will take you to the main place. This bus stop is in the middle of the cedar forest, from where all the monuments and main temples are within a few minutes walk.
You can also explore the World Heritage Sites of Nikko with Nikko Pass, which lets you travel freely by train or bus for 2 or 4 days. With a round trip between Tobu Asakusa Station and Tobu Nikko Station, you don’t have to worry about how to get from Tokyo to Nikko. When you arrive at Tobu Asakusa Station, you can show the Klook Digital Ticket to the station staff, board the train directly, and head to Nikko. At the end of your visit to this remarkable heritage site, head back to Tobu Nikko Station or Shimo-imaichi Station and take a hassle-free ride back to Tokyo.
Nikko. Toshogu Shrine
Rich colours and numerous decorations characterize the mausoleum of the first shogun of the Tokugawa family. There is a stone staircase called the “stairs of a thousand men”, which will lead you to the most crucial shrine in Nikko. At the top of the stairs is the magnificent granite torii gate, the largest gate of this type. It was erected in the Edo period (1618).
The five-storied Pagoda (Important cultural property)
On the left side, there is a beautiful five-storied pagoda. The original construction was erected in 1650. Unfortunately, in 1815, it was destroyed by fire. However, it was rebuilt three years later. The pagoda had a unique pillar inside the structure along its height (30 m). The pillar is suspended, hanging on chains from the 4th story. This prevented the pillar from punching through the roof even if the pagoda’s height shrinks over its long life.
This also works as a shock absorber, making it extremely resistant to strong winds and earthquakes. Several have already tested the construction of the pagoda. So far, the system has proven to be a great anti-seismic invention. It has been proven for the last 200 years that in 2012, the same technique was used during the construction of the Tokyo Sky Tree.
Today’s pagoda is 36 m high and decorated with rich, vibrant colours and numerous ornaments. The leading motifs are animals illustrating the Oriental Zodiac. There is a motif of the Mitsui Aoi (three mallow flowers on the black rim), symbolising the Tokugawa family.
The omote-mon gate
This is another monument that can be seen on the way to the main temple. It is an excellent example of religious syncretism, that is, the combination of different religious traditions. In this case, on the one hand, there are Nio guards—defenders of the Buddhist pantheon. On the other side of the gate, there is a pair of stone Chinese lions, the Karajishi—guarding the Shinto shrines. At this gate, you can find over 82 sculptures in total.
The courtyard
Then, we enter a large courtyard with three holy warehouses (Sanjinko) and the Drum Tower. These warehouses were designed to store objects used during the annual matsuri feasts—the parade of a thousand warriors accompanying the yabusame ceremony.
Kamijinko
The Kamijinko is the tallest of three warehouses, decorated with sculptures of two animals, called “imagined elephants”. Why such a strange name? It is because the author of these sculptures has never seen a real elephant. He had never seen a picture that would give him an idea of these animals. When he decided to do his work, he read only the description of the elephant in one of the books. So, let’s take a look at what he had imagined:
Shinyosha – is a sacred stable where a white horse from New Zealand was kept. The stables are adorned by the famous statue of the Hidari Jingoro, consisting of eight panels depicting Sansaru (three wise monkeys), sometimes called the three mystic apes. Together, they embody the proverbial principle “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”
- Mizzou – covering his eyes, who sees no evil
- Kikazaru – covering his ears, who hears no evil;
- Iwazaru – covering his mouth, who speaks no evil.
The importance of this Buddhist recommendation can be interpreted in many ways. One of them is the version that says, “Whoever lives according to the above guidelines is protecting himself against evil.”
The Yomei Mon Gate
The next staircase leads to the “Sunset Gate” – Yomei-mon, also known as “the gate that can be admired until dusk.” This name is related to the fact that the lower-rank samurai were not allowed to exceed their thresholds in the Edo period. This gate is a remarkable work of art, and its wealth is dazzling. Its additional advantage is that it has recently been completely renovated, with all sculptures repaired and freshly painted. The effect is breathtaking! It is decorated with more than 500 sculptures, including beautiful dragons (painted in pearl colours), tigers and children.
Nikko main shrine buildings
Right behind the gate, there are the main buildings of the complex: the Haiden Pavilion (praying hall), the Ishinoma Hall (made of stone, former corridor), the Ieyasu Tokugawa mausoleum, and the treasure trove of precious objects. The inner sanctuary is the most sacred place of the Tosho-gu. The halls were dedicated to the spirits of Ieyasu and two other of Japan’s most influential historical personalities: Toyotomi Hideyoshi (called by the Tokugawa Ieyasu “the most powerful man of Japan”) and Minamoto Yoritomo (the first shogun in Japan). This part is inaccessible to visitors.
The Ieyasu mausoleum is located at the end of a 200-meter rocky path that leads through an old cryptomeria forest.
Tokugawa Ieyasu – the Great Shogun
Tokugawa Ieyasu is undoubtedly one of the most outstanding figures in Japanese history. He lived from 1543 to 1616. He founded the Tokugawa Shogunate dynasty and was recognized as a great unifier of the state. In 1598-1603, he was part of the five-person old council, where (as a regent) he was the most powerful of them. In 1660, the power struggle led to the most potent battle in the feudal history of Japan. During the battle of Sekigahara, over 160 thousand warriors were involved.
Ieyasu Tokugawa won the battle, which made him the actual ruler of the country. Because the title of the Great Shogun was inherited in Japan, Ieyasu proved his origin from the Minamoto family. In 1603, he received the desired title, giving rise to the Tokugawa Shogunate. He possessed the real power only for two years, as in 1605, he abdicated and handed over the power to his son. However, after his official resignation, he made strategic decisions until his death.
Immortal defender
Today, Tokugawa is surrounded by great respect for the Japanese people: he is recognized as an extraordinary strategist, an outstanding politician and a statesman. He was considered a sage and patient man. Before his death, he demanded: “Bury me first at Mount Kuno, but at Nikko build a small sanctuary. When it is ready, move my remains like divine relics. There, I will take my duty as a defender of Japan”. The emperor Go-Mizuno raised Tokugawa Ieyasu to the rank of God and named him “the great incarnation enlightening the East.” Nikko was chosen as the final burial place due to its location north of Edo. It was also believed that the demons came from the north side.
The story of how Tokugawa’s Ieyasu got his power has become the subject of James Clavell’s book “Shōgun”. Based on that book, the series “Shōgun” was also produced. Toshirō Mifune played Tokugawa’s character (Toranaga from the book).
The Mystery of the Ieyasu Story
The history of Tokugawa Ieyasu has also been an area of research for many years by numerous scientists. They wished to answer the question of where he was buried. In 2014, Sump magazine (by Admac Inc. in Shizuoka) revealed a long-term deception regarding the actual location of the Great Shogun remains. It was well known that after he died in 1616, he was buried in the Kunōzan Tōshō-gū mausoleum in Shizuo. It was also widely believed that on the first anniversary of his death, the remains of Ieyasu were moved to the mausoleum in Nikko. The remains of Ieyasu remained in Shizuoka and never left this place.
The lie came because the descendants of Ieyasu wished to strengthen their authority and the importance of the main temple (Toshogu). Having the most splendid tomb of the eminent ruler – the Shogunate could show people his glory and power.
Looking for a burial place
To this day, knowledge of the actual burial place of Ieyasu is not widespread. People continue to worship Ieyasu’s memory in Nikko, and only a few know the truth (they want to believe it). In the face of listing the temple of Toshogu on the World Heritage List, seeking answers today and striving for truth is neither indicated nor accepted. Joining the UNESCO Heritage list was primarily motivated by the belief that it was Ieyasu’s burial site. Everyone agrees, however, that the soul of the Great Shogun indeed remains in Toshogu’s temple, so for this moment, this explanation must be enough.
Futurasan Shrine
Futarasan is a Shinto temple devoted to the gods of the mountains. The shrine was founded in 782 by the monk Shonin and reconstructed in 1610. The complex extends over a vast area, from the Shinkyo Bridge to the mountain tops. There is a very interesting Honden (main pavilion) here and three portable sanctuaries.
It is also worth mentioning that the Buddhist monk Kukai planted beautiful black pines. According to legend, he may have brought tea seeds to Japan first. There is also an old bronze lantern called the” Ghost Lantern” due to the katana traces (Japanese swords).
The shrine and its garden are surrounded by forest, so peace and silence can be found here. This is an exceptional place; there are not many tourists—it must be seen when visiting Nikko.
Kanmnangafuchi Abbys
Kanmnangafuchi is a gorge formed by lava from the volcano eruption on Mt. Nantai. The gorge is several hundred meters long. To get to this place, you must take a stroll (about 20-30 minutes from the Futarasan shrine). This will be an enjoyable walk as you will be in a charming natural environment the whole way.
The main attraction of this place (besides the Daiya River) is the row of about 70 stone statues of Jizo, the Bodhisattva, who cares for the deceased. Originally, there were 100 statues of Jizo, but some were destroyed by a major flood in the Meiji Era. The statues look out over the river and across to the Nikko Botanical Garden, but the garden can’t be entered from this side.
Shinkyo Bridge
Turning back towards the city, along the Daiya River, we reach Shinkyo Bridge. It is recognized as one of the three most beautiful bridges in Japan. It is 24 meters long, over 7 meters wide and rises over a river at a height of over 10 meters. The current construction dates back to 1636, but historical records show that the bridge was already there long before. The Shinkyo Bridge is part of the Futarasan Temple complex. Right in front of the bridge is a gejo ishi stone, reminding us that the shogun and the emperor could only cross the bridge.
History of bishop Tenkai
In front of the bridge, there is a monument of Bishop Tenkai. This is a Buddhist monk who has attained the rank of Daisojo, the highest rank of the priesthood. He served in Tokugawa Ieyasu and was an ambassador between the Tokugawa Shogunate and the Imperial Court in Kyoto. For many years, he was an advisor and trustee of Ieyasu. He managed to build several Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. He was also the great master of the Rinno-ji Temple in Nikko. After the death of Ieyasu, it was the Tenkai who fulfilled the shogun’s final wish regarding his funeral and posthumous name. From 1616, he served as an advisor to the two more Tokugawa shoguns.
In Nikko is a statue of Bishop Tenkai, who stands just opposite the Shinkyo Bridge.
Sohrintoh Tower
In Nikko, there is also a monument/tower set up by the bishop. Sohrintoh – This tower is made of bronze and is over 13 meters high. It was built in 1643 and changed its location several times. It was initially set up at the Toshogu temple, and then (in 1645) it was moved to the Futarasan Shrine. Since 1875, it has faced the temple of Rinko-ji. It was transferred there by the Mei government decree, which divided the Shinto religion from Buddhism. The tower was supposed to protect the city and the temple from evil spirits. The tower holds 1000 volumes of Buddhist scriptures. On its top, adorned with 24 bells, is an engraved Tokugawa Kamon – three mallow flowers in a black rim.
Right next to the tower is a beautiful bronze lantern—Itowappu Tourou. The local merchants gave it as a gift in recognition of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s permission to trade with merchants of the Silk Route.
Nikko memories
The beauty of Nikko left a deep impression on us. We left this place with nostalgia and a desire for a quick return. There are over 5,100 sculptures—there is no way to see them all and understand everything within a one-day trip. It is a truly charming place, full of symbols and fascinating stories. This is also about the people who live there. Strolling through the Kanmnagafuchi Abbys or the Daiya River, Japanese people smiled at us and greeted us with the warm “Konichiwa” (hello).
Nikko is a place worth visiting and experiencing to see what real beauty means.
Useful links:
- The mystery of the Tokugawa Ieyasu burial place
- Tobu Bus in Nikko
- Nikko Cultural Day Tour from Tokyo*. On this day tour from Tokyo, visit the famous historical and natural attractions in the city of Nikko. Buy a ticket online, and have a fulfilling day immersing yourself in Japanese culture with your friendly guide. Note that this is an affiliate link.
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Nikko World Heritage Day Tour from Tokyo*. Explore Nikko on a day trip from Tokyo. Behold Toshogu Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. See the Kegon waterfall, one of Japan’s top three waterfalls. Enjoy a break by Lake Chuzenji at the foot of a volcano! Note that this is an affiliate link.
So far, my other posts about Japan:
- Japan – how to organise the trip on your own
- Japan – tailor-made travel plan
- gallery of my Japanese photos
TRIPS:
- Himeji – White Egret Castle
- Kamakura – the seat of the first Shogun
- Kanazawa – Kenrokuen Garden and Castle
- Kyoto and Kansai region
- Matsumoto – city overshadowed by the Castle
- Mount Fuji – the most popular icon in Japan
- Nagano Prefecture – the Roof of Japan
- Nara -Japan’s first permanent capital
- Tokyo – Western capital
- Kamakura seat of the first shogun
*Links to the offer from Klook are affiliate