Why visit Himeji?
There are three main reasons:
- See one of the most beautiful and best-preserved castles in Japan, called the “White Egret Castle”
- Visit the complex of the Kokoen Garden, inspired by the Edo period
- Spend time in Engyoji Temple, which is more than one thousand years old and located on Mt. Shosha, the favourite place for filmmakers. Some scenes of the movie “Last Samurai” with Tom Cruise were filmed here.
Himeji – White Egret Castle
Undoubtedly, the city’s main attraction is a castle from the feudal era, which was classified as a National Treasure and listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993.
On the UNESCO side, we can find the following description: “Himeji-jo is the finest surviving example of early 17th-century Japanese castle architecture, comprising 83 buildings with highly developed systems of defence and ingenious protection devices dating from the beginning of the Shogun period. It is a masterpiece of wood construction, combining function with aesthetic appeal, both in its elegant appearance unified by the white plastered earthen walls and in the subtle relationships between the building masses and the multiple roof layers.”
The first fortifications where the castle stands today were built around 1333, but their construction began only in 1581 when Hashiba Hideyoshi entered the castle and owned it. He enlarged the existing fortress and turned it into a strategic military point. In 1600, Tokugawa Ieyasu’s son-in-law, Ikeda Terumasa, took over and shaped the castle. The final reconstruction began in 1601 and was completed in 1609. Since then, the castle has survived in its original shape. During the bombing of World War II, the castle was slightly damaged, but everything was rebuilt.
Himeji-jo, a masterpiece of Japanese architecture
The castle is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Japanese architecture, called “White Egret Castle”, as its body resembles a flying egret. The fortress is an excellent example of defence art but has never been attacked. Seen from the outside, the Main Keep appears to have five stories, but the interior reveals a 7-floored structure, with six floors above and one in the basement. There are also three smaller towers. The walls of the entire building are entirely covered with white plaster, which is made from slaked lime, shell ash, hemp fibre and seaweed. This is a very traditional method used in Japan for a long time. About 3 cm of the wall’s thickness protects the building from fire, winds, rain and snow.
The castle has 11 wells, 21 gates, 27 towers, and almost 1,000 shooting holes. A moat and a wall surround the whole castle.
Himeji Castle was mainly a symbol of the shoguns’ prestige, hence its incomparable, beautiful wavy roofs. Because the fortress has survived in perfect condition, it is now often used as a film production site for historical productions.
Visiting Himeji Castle
A path marked with arrows (approx.. 2 hours) leads through a labyrinth of doors, passages, stairs and defensive corridors. The central part has a large courtyard with many pine and cherry trees. At the beginning of the path, there is a pavilion where the castle’s owners lived with their families and vassals of the clan. From there, it goes to the central part of the castle, where the prominent keep rises. It was where the shooting point was planned and the last bastion in the event of an attack. The donjon tower has five floors and is 31,5 m high, the foundation of Main Keep is 14,8 m high, and the Himeyama hill where the Castle was built is 45,6 m high – which rises 92 m above sea level.
Inside the Castle
From the top floors of the castle, you can enjoy beautiful views of the gardens, city walls, moats, Himeji city, and the mountains. Also, it is worth mentioning that through the window, you can see a pair of two-meter tall sculptures, showing shahi (half fish, half tiger) – protecting the roof from fire. It is also worth looking at the vast cypress pillars that support roof construction, as the base of their diameter is 95 cm, and the oldest specimen is 780 years old. On each floor, there are collections of armour, swords and firearms. For English-speaking visitors, there are also a few multilingual signs explaining architectural features and renovation efforts made over the years to preserve the structure.
Western Bailey and Princess Sen
Behind the walls of the castle, there is also Western Bailey, where lived Honda Tadatoki – son of the lord of Himeji Castle. After the victorious Summer Osaka Battle, Tadatoki married the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Princess Senhime (also called “Princess Sen”) – whose story is also enjoyable.
At the age of 7 – Princess Sen married Toyotomi Hideyori, however, a few years later he committed seppuku (ritual suicide), after the loss in Osaka Summer Battle waged by Ieyasu. She was rescued from the Osaka Castle flames, and at the age of 20, she remarried Honda Tadatoki. She has spent in Himeji Castle the best 10 years of her life, leaving together with her husband and two children – son Kochiyo and daughter Katsu. However, Kochiyo died of the disease at the age of 3, and 5 years later, her husband died of tuberculosis at the age of 31. As was the tradition for a widow then, Senhime cut her hair, returned to Edo, and became a Buddhist nun named Tenjuin. She spent the rest of her life there, mourning the loss of her husband and son, until she died at the age of 70.
When Princess Sen was living in the Himeji Castle, a “Cosmetic Tower” was built in the Western Bailey. Princess Sen could rest there and take care of her beauty. The Tower was full of richly coloured decorations. Her servants also lived in some of the rooms of the Bailey.
The Western Bailey consists of numerous towers built in the 17th century, connected by a 2-level corridor.
Arrival at Himeji Castle and entry tickets
Himeji can be reached from almost every major city in Japan, as Shinkansen trains (most of the Nozomi and Mizuho) stop here. From Tokyo, it is about 3 hours by train; from Nagoya, about 1 hour and 20 minutes; and from Kyoto, 44 minutes.
From JR Himeji Station, you can walk to the castle along Otemaedori Street (about 15 min.) or take a Castle Loop bus (day pass 300 yen / 2,6 $). Between May and August, the castle can be visited from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and in other months, from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Beware! It is worth buying a combined ticket to visit the Himeji Castle and nearby Kokoen Gardens, which costs 1040 yen (about $9.2). The ticket is valid only in the Castle and costs 1000 yen (about $8.9).
Kokoen Garden
Located just behind the castle moat, next to the main gate, is a complex of nine Kokoen gardens. It was created quite recently, in 1992, at the exact site of Nishi-Oyashiki (Lord’s West Residence). This place reproduces the look of Edo-period gardens.
The gardens are about 3.5 ha in area and feature pine trees, bamboo, flowers, streams, and lakes. It is worth coming here to enjoy its charms and natural beauty. You can walk in the silence and beautiful surroundings of nature and have a cup of tea in one of the tea houses.
Kokoen complex
The Kokoen complex includes:
- The Lord’s Residence Garden is the biggest garden in Kokoen. The large pond has about 250 colourful carp.
- Kassui-ken restaurant – you can have a cup of tea or lunch there.
- The garden of seedlings „Nae-no-niwa”, which is a seeding garden of plants that were grown in the Edo era.
- Souju-an a tea ceremony house and next to it – the ceremony garden. Green powdered tea is served at the tea house.
- Flatly landscaped garden – a countryside-style garden
- The garden of the summer trees – created to enjoy seasonal scenery, fresh verdure in spring and coloured leaves in autumn
- Garden of pine trees and garden of flowers
- The garden with a hill and pond is built in the traditional Japanese landscape garden style. There, you can see a tortoise-shaped rock and a Japanese crane-shaped stone slab.
- The bamboo garden has a variety of bamboos.
It is worth planning about 1.5 hours to visit the Kokoen gardens. There are few visitors, so a charming atmosphere is all around. Gardens can be visited from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. from May to August or from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. during the remaining months. Entrance ticket – 300 yen (about 2,6$).
It is about a 5-minute walk from Himeji Castle; from JR Himeji station, it is 5 minutes by bus or 15 minutes on foot.
Shosha Mountain and Engyoji Temple
Engyoji Temple was founded over 1000 years ago (in 966), by Shoku, a holy Buddhist priest, who has received special spiritual enlightenment from Monju, the God of Wisdom and Intellect. It has happened on Mt. Sosha that Monju informed Shoku that anyone who climbed this mountain would be purified both in body and spirit. That is why Shoku decided to build a temple on the top of the mountain hill and opened it as part of the Tendai sect.
Mt. Shosha
Mt. Shosha is located in the northwestern area of Himeji City. For centuries, it was visited by the faithful, who were hoping for spiritual cleansing. Many people climb up the mountain, asking for divine grace. The mountain is overgrown with a beautiful primaeval forest, which gives an unusual and sublime atmosphere. It is a lovely place, especially in spring, when there is a cherry blossom season, and autumn, full of natural colours. Eight buildings and seven Buddhist statues are considered “Important Cultural Properties”.
You should plan to spend at least 2.5 hours getting to the main temple building (Maniden) and walking through the forest.
To get to Mt. Shosha, take Shinki Bus no. 8. The bus departs from JR Himeji (platform 10) and nearby Himeji Castle. Travel takes about 30 minutes, and the price is 270 yen in one way (2,4$). Get off at the final stop, “Mt. Shosha Ropeway”, and the ropeway will be just ahead.
Mt. Shosha Ropeway
Just next to the bus stop is an entrance to the elevator, where tickets are also available (you can buy them in the vending machine). Hostesses are waiting for customers, willing to assist them with ticket purchase or give directions. They can also communicate via radio with the ropeway service team and ask them to postpone departure by a few minutes, pending passengers purchasing tickets or waiting for the lift.
A one-way ticket is 500 yen (4,4$), and a return ticket is 900 yen (8 $). The lift enters the level from which the ropeway departs. The ropeway departs every 15 minutes, and the first one starts at 8:30 a.m. There is one gondola each way, which can take up to 71 people at a time, including one tour guide.
The journey takes less than 4 minutes, and the ropeway stops at 370 m above sea level. The views through the gondola windows are breathtaking, as when there is nice weather, you can see not only the nearby city of Himeji but also the slightly further city of Kobe and—at the very far end—the city of Osaka.
Engyoji Temple
The Engyoji temple buildings are spread over a large, densely wooded area at the top of Mt. Shosha. The entrance to the main gate—Niomon Gate—takes about 15 minutes. The Niomon Gate dates from the Edo period and was reconstructed in 1665. People believe that after crossing the thresholds of this gate, the temple grounds inside are considered sacred. The road leads through a beautiful old forest. The path is clean, and it is nice to walk there.
On the way, you will spot 33 sculptures of the Kannon Goddess, where the faithful can leave donations. After passing the main gate, you must walk for another 10-15 minutes to reach the Maniden building – a beautiful wooden temple built on a hillside.
Engyoji Temple – Maniden
Maniden is the main building of the Engyoji temple, built in 970. It is dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy and stands halfway up the mountain’s rocky top. Unfortunately, this nearly 1,000-year-old building was burnt down in 1921, and the present building was finished in 1932.
There are 33 temples appointed as pilgrimage sites in Western Japan. The Engyoji Temple is the 27th of them. Pilgrims who visit Maniden not only worship here but also receive and collect stamps indicating that they have visited this place. Many annual events are held in Maniden.
The four heavenly guardians of Buddhism are also enshrined here, and their figures are classified as “Important Cultural Properties”. The principal statue of the Goddess of Mercy and four guardian figures can be seen only once a year, on the 18th of January.
Engyoji Temple – Mitsunodo
Another five-minute walk along dense forest paths leads to the three wooden halls known as Mitsunodo. All of them have been classified as an “Important Cultural Property”.
- Daikodo Lecture Hall is a grand auditorium dating from 986. It was once the main building on Mt. Sosha and was famous as a training centre for priests. The present building was constructed at the beginning of the 15th century, and the last reconstruction took place in 1956.
- Jikido Hall was contracted in 1174. This incomparable, wide, two-storey building is unique for its architectural style. It had two functions: a priests’ training centre and a boarding house. It was left unfinished for several hundred years until it was dismantled and reconstructed in 1963. The treasures of this temple are displayed on the second floor.
- Jogyodo Hall—This is a training hall where monks practised their faith by walking many hours around the monument of Amitabha and monotonously pronouncing his name. There was also a stage where ceremonial music and graceful dances were performed. This building has two roofs, each shaped in a different style, symbolizing harmonic beauty. The original building was built in 1331-34 but burned down in 1436. The building we can see today was remodelled and reconstructed in 1965.
Just in front of the Mitsunodo buildings is the Honda Family graveyard, the former Himeji Castle lords. Five mausoleums—Honda Tadakatsu, Tadamasa, Masatomo, Masanaga, and Tadakuni—stand here. Two tombstones of Princes Sen’s husband, Tadatoki, and their son, Kochiyo, are also here. These five mausoleums were built in a unique architectural style of the Edo period.
Engyoji Temple is open daily from 8.30 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. Admission ticket costs 500 yen (about 4,4$).
What is the reason for visiting Mt. Sosha?
Due to its unusual scenery, natural surroundings, and lack of modern infrastructure, Mt. Shosha is often used by filmmakers. Some Japanese historical productions and dramas were recorded here. The most famous Hollywood production, “Last Samurai,” was partially recorded in Mitsunodo buildings.
I highly recommend you plan a visit to this place, as it is worth it! There is silence and peace; you can hear the wind and birds singing. The forest paths are almost empty, there are no crowds of visitors, and everything is very clean. Besides the outstanding historical buildings, you will be delighted by the beautiful nature.
Inside the temple, somewhere in the middle of the forest, there is also a small restaurant where I bought the most delicious miso soup in Japan :-). It’s worth trying—it costs 500 yen / 4,4$.
In the forest, hundreds of small Jizo Bodhisattva figures also take care of the peace of mind of the unborn children.
Useful links
So far, my other posts about Japan:
- Japan – how to organise the trip on your own
- Japan – tailor-made travel plan
- my own gallery of Japan photos
TRIPS:
- Kamakura – the seat of the first Shogun
- Kanazawa – Kenrokuen Garden and Castle
- Kyoto and Kansai region
- Matsumoto – city overshadowed by the Castle
- Mount Fuji – the most popular icon in Japan
- Nagano Prefecture – the roof of Japan
- Nara -Japan’s first permanent capital
- Nikko – the light of the sun
- Tokyo – Western capital