Nara – Japan’s first permanent capital, established in 710. There are eight treasures listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It’s second only to Kyoto as a repository of Japan’s cultural legacy. The Todaji temple with the Daibutsu statue (Great Buddha) is a must-see. It is the biggest made of bronze Buddha statue in the world (48,9 ft, over 550k lb). Todajii’s main hall is the world’s largest wooden building.
In the heart of the city centre is a large park (over 600 hectares), established in 1880, at the foot of Wakakusa Hill. There are numerous ponds, expansive lawns and alleys full of flowers and cherry trees. You can not only walk, rent a rickshaw or relax there but also you can meet there – hundreds of freely living deer. In the Shinto religion, deer are believed to be messengers of the gods, so nearly 1200 deer living in Nara have become a symbol of the city and are considered a national treasure.
Fallow deer and roe deer walk the city streets and eat grass, bamboo leaves and buds. Tourists can also feed them with small, tasty deer crackers (Shika Senbei), 150 yen for a small package (1,3$). But be careful, as deer learned how to ask or demand tourists to buy the cookies, and they can do it quite pushy. It has happened in the past, pedestrians were injured by sharp-pointed horns, so today most of the deer have their horns cut off. There are information boards around the park, which can be easily understood by looking at the pictograms, which show how dangerous it can be to have close contact with those wild animals.
How to get from Kyoto to Nara
No surprise that you can get from Kyoto to Nara by train. Depending on which train you will choose, your journey can take between 60-70 minutes. At the Kintetsu Station, you can visit the travel information office. You will find some city maps, brochures, and information about Nara city and its monuments and treasures, all available in English.
Please note that Nara city can be visited on foot (especially recommended on warm, sunny days) or with local bus services. Two loop buses are available, which can take you to most of the shrines and temples.
A One-Day Pass around Nara Park costs 500 yen (4,5 $). A One-Day Pass Wide (which covers a more significant part of the city and more temples) costs 1000 yen (9 $).
UNESCO – World Heritage List
The Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara (source: UNESCO about Nara) represent a unique testimony to the evolution of Japanese architecture and art. They clearly illustrate Japan’s most crucial cultural and political development period when Nara (then called Heiji-kyo) functioned as the country’s capital. During that period, the framework of a united government was created. With the great prosperity of the city, a powerful and centralized state was born, together with the national identity and development of Japanese culture.
All monuments were listed on the UNESCO list in 1988 and are in the city of Nara. The property includes eight parts, comprises 78 buildings, and covers 617.0 ha.
The town of Heijo-kyo was erected at the site of Nara, at the end of the silk route. It has been carefully selected in accordance with Chinese geomantic principles. In China, the elements of geomancy included in Feng Shui philosophy and rules of the environment were used to gain better health, happiness, and harmony with one’s own environment.
Ancient Nara
Based on Chinese knowledge and experience, a grand city plan was laid out, with palaces, Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, public buildings, houses, and roads on an orthogonal grid. The palace, located at the northern end of the central avenue, occupied 120 ha. It comprised the official buildings where political and religious ceremonies took place, notably the imperial audience hall (Daigokuden), state halls (Chodo-in), and the imperial residence (Dairi), together with various compounds for administrative and other purposes. In the centre of the city, there was a castle. On the east and west sides were two markets and two guarded capital temples. A wall surrounded everything.
The UNESCO Heritage List includes an archaeological site (the Nara Palace Site), five Buddhist temples (Todai-ji, Kofuku-ji, Yakushi-ji, Gango-ji, and Toshodai-ji), a Shinto shrine (Kasuga-Taisha), and an associative cultural landscape (Kasugayama Primeval Forest), the natural environment that is an integral part of all Shinto shrines. Together, these places provide a vivid and comprehensive picture of religion and life in the Japanese capital in the 8th century, a period of profound political and cultural change.
Nara – Kohfuku-ji Temple
The temple was built in 669 in Uji, south of Kyoto. 41 years later, in 710, it was moved to Nara at the behest of the Fujiwara family, who owned it. The place around the temple grew very fast. In the time of the city’s greatest boom (VIII-XII), the complex covered over 12 thousand square meters and counted 175 buildings. The temple is interesting from an architectural point of view, as it has survived in its present form in an original style called wayo, characteristic of Japan from that period (without Chinese influence).
In 2010, the temple celebrated its 1300th anniversary.
Kohfuku-ji – what to look for?
- The central location is a five-storied pagoda, Japan’s second-largest and today’s Nara symbol. The pagoda was rebuilt several times because it burned down five times. The last reconstruction occurred in 1426 (about 600 years ago) and has survived to this day.
- Tokondo is the excellent Eastern Pavilion, built in 726 in honour of Empress Gensho. The pavilion was also destroyed by fire several times; the last reconstruction took place in 1415.
- Kokuhokan is a former refectory, now a vault and temple museum.
- The Central Golden Pavilion was destroyed in a fire in 1717. Although a replacement hall was built about 100 years later, the Golden Pavilion was not rebuilt. In recent years, however, it was decided to complete its reconstruction, and it is now undergoing full reconstruction. The pavilion’s reopening is scheduled for 2018.
- There are also two octagonal halls in the temple area: the Northern Round Hall and the Southern Round Hall, which contain valuable monuments. The Northern Hall was built in 721 as a mausoleum in honour of Nara’s founder and principal sponsor, Fujiwara no Fuhito. However, the original building burned down in 1049, and the final reconstruction took place in 1210. The building has survived to this day and is the oldest one in the temple area. Unfortunately, the Southern Hall, built in 813, has not survived. The building we can see today was reconstructed in 1741-1789. The Southern Hall served as the mausoleum and the most important temple for the Fujiwara family. Both halls are open to visitors only a few times a year (The Sothern Hall only once a year: October 17th).
The Tokondo Pavilion can be visited from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission ticket is 300 yen (2,7$). The Kokuhokan Treasury can be visited simultaneously, with an entrance fee of 600 yen (5,4$). For both attractions, you can buy a combined ticket for 800 yen (7,2$) *2019
Nara – Todaiji Temple
In 743, under the order of the emperor Shomu, the construction of the largest bronze sculpture in the world, the Great Buddha, began. At the erection of the main building of Daibatsu-den, over 350,000 people worked. Inside the statue (dedicated in 751), it was poured in 8 parts (face and hands separately) for over 3 years. The building was completed in 752, and today, the pavilion is the largest wooden building in the world! Moreover, the original building was about 1/3 bigger than the one we know today, but part of the pavilion was damaged by fire. After subsequent reconstructions, the building was reduced to the present size: frontage 187ft (57m), depth 165ft (50m), and height 160ft (48.7m).
Architectural curiosities should also be added to the fact that the entire pavilion’s structure was made without nails, and the individual elements were matched by holes, hollows, and wooden pegs.
The Buddha’s monument was destroyed several times, mostly by earthquakes. The statue that we can see today was cast in 1692.
Each year, the temple is visited by over 3 million tourists.
Todaiji – within the temple you should pay attention to:
- The Great Southern Gate – Nandai-mon has five spans and is covered by a double roof. Nio guards (from 1203) are in the pillars of the gate, symbolizing the beginning and end of life.
- The Great Buddha Pavilion – Daibatsu-den, overwhelms the colossal bronze statue depicting the Daibatsu Vairocana. It is a cosmic Buddha, sitting in the position of a lotus flower. Its dimensions are impressive: the entire statue is 48.9 ft high (15m), the length of its Head is 17.4 ft (5.3m), each Eye is 3,34 ft long (1m), and each Ear is over 8.3 ft (2.5m). The whole weight is about 550k lb US (250k tons). There is also a statue of the Nyoirin Kannon in the pavilion, fulfilling the request, and the Kokuzo Kannon, a symbol of wisdom.
- The octagonal lighthouse faces the temple’s entrance. It is estimated that the lighthouse was built in the same period as Japan’s first capital. The lighthouse is made of bronze and is over 15 feet high (4.6m).
- The Golden Sorin is a spiral column that crowns the roof of each pagoda. The one standing next to the temple was once placed on the roof of one of the two pagodas built at that time. Each was 100 meters high, and at that time, they were the highest pagodas in the world. Both pagodas burned down, and the only remnant of them was Sorin. In the park, next to the temple, a gold spiral column stands where one of the pagodas once stood.
You can reach the temple on foot from the Kintetsu Train Station (about 20-25 minutes). In the summer season, it is open from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. The Admission ticket to Daibatsu-den is 500 yen ($4.5$).
Our impressions of visiting the Todaiji Temple
On the day we visited Nara, it was raining. Rain, a grey sky, and numerous umbrellas over the heads of passers-by changed our plans for long walks in the park and our aesthetic perception. Photos of the monuments came out grey and blurred. Many deer living in the park hid under the trees and were unwilling to pose in front of the camera. The umbrellas obscured interesting objects. Taking photos from underneath the umbrella was not easy, and our cameras got soaked.
But when we reached the temple of Todaiji and saw tourists with colourful umbrellas, we knew it was a real happiness to be there on such a rainy day. Thanks to that, we could pick up other stimuli and appreciate the city’s other values than those seen during sunny weather. What we liked were the rain-shining sidewalks, saturated colours of the surrounding nature, and the much fewer tourists on the streets.
1000 monks
But the most significant surprise was the opportunity to witness prayer in the Temple of Todaiji, which started with the march of over 1,000 monks. They were walking in a long and colourful procession underneath the umbrellas, in groups characterized by separate costumes. Monks sang, prayed, played instruments, and talked to each other. All the tourists stopped when they saw the marching monks so we could look at all the participants.
When everyone entered the temple, we hesitated whether it was worthwhile since 1000 people had just stepped inside. However, we were surprised when it turned out that the entire ceremony (prayer) took place on the platform in the pavilion’s centre. The remaining faithful and tourists could calmly continue to enter and walk around a platform with over 1000 people around a statue of the Great Buddha standing on it.
The temple also has a fascinating scale model, showing the most important buildings of the ancient city of Nara. Partially, some of them are preserved to this day.
Nara – Kasuga Taisha temple
The road from Todaiji to the Kasuga Taisha temple partly runs through Park Nara, the city, and the forest. The temple area’s buildings are on the edge of a picturesque, very well-preserved primaeval forest. There are picturesque bridges, wooden buildings, and stone lanterns.
The Kasuga Taisha Temple was built in 768. It is best known for its 3,000 lanterns, which the faithful have sacrificed for centuries. Lanterns stand on the way to the temple along the main avenue and in front of it. Lanterns are made of bronze or stone. Inside the temple, lanterns are also decorated in the interior of long corridors – dominated by hanging lanterns in golden or red colours. All lanterns are lit twice a year (nights of 14-15 August and 3 February), during the Mantoro festival.
The temple also has a fascinating place – the Fujinami-no-ya chamber. It is a dark room, without light from the outside, and the only light source comes from the lighted lanterns. The feeling is fantastic, although the walk inside lasts only a while. This small pavilion is in complete darkness, without even seeing people standing before us, yet the white, flashing light from the lantern creates a magical mood. The chamber was prepared for those who couldn’t stay here during the Mantoro Festival. It is supposed to provide the same experiences that can be experienced during the night of the festival. This example is supposed to encourage people to return to the temple in February or August.
In the temple, a deity who cares for the city is worshipped – Takemikazuchi. According to the legend, he came to Nara sitting on a deer. It is a deity in Japanese mythology, considered a god of thunder and sword. He also competed in the first recorded sumo wrestling match in history.
The temple can be visited from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in the summer or 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. from October to March. The admission ticket is 500 yen ($4.5).
Nara – Yakushi-ji Temple
The seat of the Hosso sect, founded in 680 by emperor Tenmui, was transferred to Nara in 718. It is one of the oldest and most worshipped temples in the city. Several fires severely damaged it, but the final reconstruction occurred in 1528.
On the spot, it is worth looking at the originally preserved Eastern Pagoda, Toto. It is 34 meters high and has three storeys. The main Kondo pavilion (from 1635) houses the bronze triad of Buddha Yakushima (from 697).
In front of the temple, there is a stone—the historical Monument of Ancient Nara. It commemorates that the monuments of Nara and the Yakushiji Temple are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.
You can get to the temple by train from the Kintetsu Train Station. Take the Kintetsu Nara train and get to Yamato-Saidaiji Station. Then, transfer to the Kintetsu Kashihara train and get off at Nisinokyo Station. The trip will take about 25 minutes and cost 260 yen (2.3$).
You can also take bus 70, 72, or 97 (about 15 minutes, cost 260 yen—2.3$) from Kintetsu Train Station. Get off at the Yakushiji stop but return to the Yakushiji-Higashiguchi stop.
The temple is open from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and the entrance fee is 800 yen ($7.2)..
Nara’s curiosity
In recent years, in preparation for the celebration of the 1300th anniversary of the establishment of the capital of Nara (Heijo-kyo), an attempt was made to reconstruct the Heijo Imperial Palace partially. The main gate (Suzakumon) and Toin Teien Garden, used by the imperial family, were reconstructed on the archaeological site. In 2010, the Daigokuden Auditorium, with a decorative throne and a ceiling adorned with paintings depicting the Chinese signs of the zodiac and four sides of the world, was also opened.
Both archaeological sites and rebuilt buildings can be visited daily (except Mondays) from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. with free admission.
Useful links regarding Nara:
- Todaiji Temple
- Kofukuji Temple
- Kasuga Taisha Shrine
- Kyoto and Nara Day Tour from Osaka/Kyoto*
- The 7 Great Temples of Ancient Nara Day Tour*
So far, my other posts about Japan:
- Japan – how to organise the trip on your own
- Japan – tailor-made travel plan
- my own gallery of Japan photos
TRIPS:
- Himeji – White Egret Castle
- Kamakura – the seat of the first Shogun
- Kanazawa – Kenrokuen Garden and Castle
- Kyoto and Kansai region
- Matsumoto – city overshadowed by the Castle
- Mount Fuji – the most popular icon in Japan
- Nagano Prefecture – The Roof of Japan
- Nikko – the light of the sun
- Tokyo – western capital
*Links to the offer from Klook are affiliate