Sevilla, the capital of Andalusia, is located on the river Guadalquivir. In the seventeenth century, it was one of Spain’s most populous cities. Its rich, turbulent history is reflected in numerous monuments today. Some date from the period of Arab rule (VIII-XIII centuries), while others come from the era of great geographical discoveries.
Sevilla’s extraordinary beauty is evident in its monuments. It is also evident in colourful courtyards, numerous squares, and winding cobbled streets. Plenty of small gardens, green and flowered balconies, and excellent cuisine abound. Today, Sevilla is home to the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, along with the city’s bell tower (Giralda). Together with the Alcazar Palace and the Main Archives of India, these sites were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1987.
Seville attracts tourists with its guarantee of beautiful weather and bullfights in the corrida arena. It is also popular for the fun, flamenco music, and friendly attitude of the residents. Numerous tapas bars encourage evening walks and help visitors integrate with the local community.
Sevilla – how to get there?
Aeroplane
Sevilla has a well-connected airport, not only to the rest of Spain but also to the largest airports in Europe. You can fly directly to Madrid, Barcelona, Frankfurt, Paris, London, Brussels or Rome. Several major airlines fly here: Lufthansa, Qatar Airways, and British Airways. Smaller, budget airlines also offer competitive fares: Ryanair, Vueling, and Iberia. Seville Airport is located a short distance from the city centre, and for a taxi ride to the city centre, fixed prices are valid:
- from Monday to Friday, between 7.00 a.m. – 9.00 p.m. – 22,2 Euro
- other days and hours – 24,75 Euro
- during church holidays and April fair week -30,93 Euro
The taxi ride to the old town takes about 15-20 minutes, depending on the traffic. More information is available on the Sevilla airport website.
Train
A short distance from the city centre is Seville Santa Justa station, the city’s main railway station. From here, regular connections run to the rest of Andalusia. Express AVE trains also run to Córdoba and Málaga, as well as to Madrid, Valencia, and Barcelona.
The express train from Madrid takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes (on the way, it stops only at 1 station – in Córdoba).
The Santa Justa railway station opened in 1991 as part of the city’s modernisation plans for Expo 1992, when Spain launched its first high-speed AVE service. Santa Justa is the third-busiest station in Spain by passenger numbers, with around 8 million passengers a year.
Trains are an extremely popular and convenient way to travel around Spain. However, I suggest booking your ticket in advance, because on popular routes train tickets are almost always sold out. To book tickets online, I recommend the website below. You can plan any trip there and print your tickets at home.
You can book tickets for trains in Spain at the Train Tickets in Spain website.
From the Santa Justa station to the old town, you can get a taxi for around 5-6 euros.
Car
You can easily get around the roads of Spain by car. Many car rental companies are available at every airport and major railway station. The main roads are well marked and comfortable to travel on; however, some are paid. The journey from Madrid to Sevilla takes about 5-6 hours, so in this case, the train seems more convenient. However, a car can be an excellent option for visiting small towns or for short routes, because you can’t get everywhere by train or long-distance bus.
- Rent a car at the airport in Sevilla
- Renting a car at the “Santa Justa” station offers several companies; their offices are inside the station, on the side of the railway platforms. Below are direct links to several of them: Centauro, Sixt, Hertz.
Sevilla – how to move around the city?
On foot
Most attractions in Sevilla are in the Old Town. They are surrounded by the districts of Macarena, Centro and Arenal. They are all within a few minutes’ walk of each other.
Taxi
After a whole day of walking, you can take a taxi on your way back to the hotel. Taxi prices are very affordable here (a 15-minute ride costs approx. 6 euros). MyTaxi is a very popular mobile app for ordering taxis in Spain. It is available in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla and Valencia (beginning of 2018). It is very convenient to use, and many cabs operate through the MyTaxi app.
You know the price before ordering a taxi, and after the trip you can pay the fare through the app. The app is especially useful when we get lost in the city and don’t know how to get back. It is also useful when you don’t know the phone number of a local taxi company and/or don’t want to speak Spanish with the driver, since the app shows your destination address.
Tourist bus
For less persistent walkers, a Hop-On Hop-Off bus can be a convenient option.
- City Sightseeing Sevilla, 14 stops along the route, 16 languages
Bicycle
Sevilla has become one of the most interesting places in the world to move around by bicycle. This is thanks to the creation of over 160 km of bicycle paths in the city. All paths are separated from the road and are safe and clearly marked for both pedestrians and cyclists. Bicycle paths connect all districts of the city and are designated along the main streets. Their network also extends outside the city, linking Sevilla with the rest of the region.
In the city, a large bike-rental network called Sevici has 260 stations, open 24/7. This system is easily accessible to residents and tourists, as no prior registration is required to rent a bicycle. New users register and pay the deposit during their first attempt to rent a bike, and they can do so at any station using the payment terminal. The bicycle rental panels also have an English interface. Tourists staying in the city only for a few days can take advantage of a subscription valid for 7 days.
Sevilla – bike rental costs:
- Upon first registration, an amount of EUR 150 will be charged to our account to secure the deposit (a credit card is required to secure this transaction)
- The deposit is fully returned to the account after the subscription expires
- Weekly registration in the system costs 13.33 Euro
- Bike rental for the first 30 minutes is free; another hour costs EUR 1.03
- Each subsequent hour costs 2,05 Euro
More information is available directly on Sevici – rent a bike in Sevilla.
Riding a bike around Sevilla is a real pleasure: the city is flat, so it’s perfect for inexperienced cyclists, and the weather is almost always perfect for outdoor activities. An additional advantage of this place is its beautiful architecture and picturesque location – sufficient encouragement to take advantage of this form of recreation.
Sevilla – what is a must-see?
Cathedral, Giralda and Courtyard of Orange Trees
Cathedral
The Cathedral of the Holy Virgin in Sevilla (Cathedral de Santa Maria de la Sede) is one of the most magnificent and largest Gothic churches in Europe. It is also the third-largest church building in the world. It was built on the site of a mosque built by the Muslim Almohad dynasty. Today, the only remains of the mosque are the Giralda bell tower (a former minaret) and the inner courtyard with orange trees called “Patio de Los Naranjos“. In 1987, the Cathedral Church and the Giralda Tower were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The cathedral contains an impressive altar (the largest in Spain), a 17th-century sculpture of the crucified Christus, and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. The royal chapel contains the remains of King Ferdinand III, also known as the “Saint” (he was elevated to the altars in 1671), who liberated the city and much of Andalusia from Moorish domination. After the liberation of Sevilla from the Moors, he created a new capital city there.
Giralda (minaret)
Construction of the Giralda began in 1184, during the Moorish period, and took 12 years to complete. For its construction, there were used remains of the ancient Roman city of Italica, which is near Sevilla. The Giralda served not only as a sacred place but also as an observatory.
The Giralda has no stairs inside. The ramp (a steep corridor with 35 segments) makes the top accessible. The corridor was wide and tall enough to let the muezzin reach the minaret’s top on horseback, from where he could deliver a prayer call.
Today, the tower’s first two-thirds is a former minaret, and the upper third is Spanish Renaissance architecture. After the Christians took Sevilla, the copper spheres that originally topped the tower fell during an earthquake in 1365. They replaced the spheres with a cross and a bell. The new cathedral incorporated the tower as a bell tower. It was later built higher during the Renaissance. The Christians added 17 steps at the end of the tower’s ramp, which now leads up to the balconies with bells.
Giralda’s name
In 1568, the bell tower was topped with a bronze statue of a woman holding a shield and a palm tree – symbolising faith. The figure is 4 meters high and is set on a weather vane. From the Spanish word “girar” – turn “, the figure began to be called Giralda. Over time, the tower itself took on this name. The entire tower, together with the figure on the top, is 104 m high. Although Giralda was rebuilt during the Renaissance, it remains one of the city’s most important symbols today.
Courtyard of the Orange Trees
The courtyard “Patio de Los Naranjos” was built in 1186. It is rectangular, measuring 43 by 81 meters, and is planted with orange trees. Until Christians took over the city, the garden served all the traditional Muslim functions: there was a cemetery and a reception hall; it was used to teach and hold trials and it served as a place for numerous cultural events.
Cathedral – admission tickets and visiting hours
The admission ticket to the cathedral costs 11 euros* for an adult, and children up to 14 years old can enter for free. Pensioners and students up to the age of 25 can enter for 6 euros. The ticket also includes a one-time visit to the Sevilla Divino Salvador church.
* Prices from 2023
Opening hours:
- Mondays – from 11.00 a.m. to 3.30 p.m.
- Tuesday to Saturday from 11.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
- On Sundays from 2.30 p.m. to 6.00 p.m.
I recommend buying entrance tickets online to avoid standing in a long queue at the cash register. Online ticket holders enter the cathedral from a different side, and the entrance to the Giralda is included in the ticket price.
More information is available on the Sevilla Cathedral website.
You can also see the Cathedral during a guided tour, which takes 2h. For more, check the website: Cathedral of Seville Guided Tour*.
Alcazar Palace
The Alcazar palace complex has been used for centuries as a residence for successive rulers. To this day, rooms on the palace’s second floor are used by the royal family during visits to Sevilla.
The first Moorish palace was built in this place in the tenth century. The main reconstruction took place in the years 1350-69 on behalf of the Christian King Peter “the Cruel”. He was a great supporter of Arab architecture. The Alcazar castle is built in the Mudejar style. Here you can see decorations made of cedarwood, colourful ceramic tiles (azulejos) and lace stucco.
Gardens of the Alcazar Palace
An important element of the palace is its beautiful garden. Numerous palm trees, myrtles, oleanders, and cypresses line the grounds. Fountains and ponds, winding paths, and hidden benches dot the grounds. The park is very pleasant, especially during warm days, because the air is pleasantly moist here and saturated with the scent of flowers.
The palace has witnessed several important events in Spain’s history. Here, they decided to send sea expeditions, including one led by Ferdinand Magellan. Christopher Columbus was also received here by Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon after his trip to America.
Alcazar – entrance tickets and visiting hours
From October to March, the palace is open from 9.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., and from April to September, from 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
Admission to the lower parts of the palace and gardens costs 13.5 euros*. You can also visit some rooms located in the upper part of the palace for 5.50 euros*.
*Prices from 2023
From March to October, on Wednesdays and Thursdays, you can buy a night tour; admission is 14 euros.
In front of the palace entrance, there is a long queue for tickets, but you can buy tickets online and enter out of turn. You can buy the Alcázar tickets here.
You can also buy a ticket for the Alcázar of Seville Guided Tour*
Pilate’s House (Casa de Pilatos)
Contrary to the suggestion of this name, Pontius Pilate never lived in the House of Pilate. The building is also not a copy of the Roman governor’s villa in Jerusalem. Its name was created in the sixteenth century. In front of its entrance, there was the first station of the Way of the Cross (judgment of Pontius Pilate) during the procession of the Holy Week celebrations.
The architecture of this 16th-century palace successfully combines Mudejar and Renaissance styles. The palace complex consists of many rooms, courtyards, and gardens. The best-known part of the Pilate House is a rectangular Andalusian courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard is a beautiful marble fountain, and around it (on two floors) are cloisters that lead to the rooms. The palace has two charming gardens. In most rooms of the lower storey of the palace, the walls are decorated with tens of thousands of hand-painted ceramic tiles – azulejos. The palace also houses an interesting collection of Roman sculptures and paintings by eminent artists of the Golden Age of Spanish culture. They belong to the Medinaceli princely family, which currently owns the palace.
Pilate’s House – film inspirations
Pilate’s House is considered the original prototype of Andalusian palaces found in southern Spain. It was used many times as a movie set for some Hollywood super-productions. Movies filmed there include “Lawrence of Arabia” (1962), “1492: Journey to Paradise” (1992), “The Kingdom of Heaven” (2005), and “Explosive Pair” (2010).
The palace is beautiful and magical, but surprisingly, tourists don’t plan to visit it during their Seville sightseeing. As a result, you won’t stand in a long queue to enter, and there are no crowds of visitors. I strongly urge you to visit this palace, as it’s a great place and an unforgettable experience.
Pilate’s House – admission tickets and visiting hours:
From November to March, the castle is open from 9.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. From April to October from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
An admission ticket, which will allow you to visit the whole palace complex, costs 10 euros. You can enter the upper floor only with a guide (entrance every half hour). You can also buy a ticket only for the lower part of the palace and gardens for 8 euros.
Each ticket includes an audio guide. Available languages are English, Spanish, French, Italian, Portuguese, German and Japanese.
Spanish Square and The Maria Luisa Park
Spanish Square (Plaza de España) and all buildings around it were created for the Ibero-American exhibition, organised in Sevilla in 1929. The exhibition featured novelties of Spanish industry and craft. The square was built based on the project of the Sevilla architect Aníbal Gonzáles.
It is a huge semicircular town square, around which stand the palace and exhibition pavilions. The central facade is in the Baroque style, while the rest of the building is in the Renaissance style. Two corner towers, designed after the shape of the Giralda, also stand at the corners.
The buildings create a decorative, colourful picture with many columns and interesting decorations. On the walls, coats of arms and achievements of individual provinces of Spain are displayed on hand-painted tiles.
The interior of the semicircle is a town square, surrounded by a canal on which boats float (rental cost approx. 5 euros). Four bridges cross the canal, representing the four historical lands of Spain: Castile, Aragon, León, and Navarra. In the centre of the square is a fountain.
Maria Luisa Park
The park was created for the 1929 World Exhibition. The former park areas belonged to the San Telmo Palace. In 1893, they handed over the park area to the city for public purposes. The area was transformed into a park in 1911. It has survived to this day.
The park covers approximately 40 ha and is the largest green area in Sevilla. It is eagerly visited not only by city residents but also by tourists. Several colourful tiled fountains, ponds, lush plantings of palm trees, orange trees, Mediterranean pines, and stylised flower beds, as well as several romantic gazebos hidden behind grapevines, dot the park. The park also acts as a botanical garden. In addition to lush nature, it is also home to pigeons, green parrots, ducks, and swans.
American Square
American Square is at the end of Maria Luisa Park. This place was also created for the needs of the World Exhibition. The square features impressive buildings, including the Mudejar Pavilion with the Museum of Arts and Traditions (Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares) and the Pavilion with the Archaeological Museum (Museo Arqueológico).
American Square is often visited on weekends. In spring and summer, you can rent go-karts, children eagerly feed pigeons flying above their heads, and the park is filled with the scent of blooming roses.
Sevilla – what else is worth seeing?
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza and Bullfight Museum
“The history of bullfighting is so closely linked to the history of Spain that the latter cannot be understood without understanding the former.”
José Ortega y Gasset
A corrida is a traditional bullfight, a spectacle that remains very popular in Spain. According to some sources, this custom was brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Arabs; other versions point to the Carthaginians or Romans. Once a custom popular among the aristocracy, even kings took part in the fighting (e.g., Philip IV).
Even the most ardent opponents of the Corrida should see the arena in Sevilla because this building is one of the oldest and most beautiful places of this type in Spain. During the bullfighting season, you can buy tickets and see the spectacle. The arena can seat 12,000 spectators. You can find detailed ticket information here: tickets for Plaza de Toros.
There is also a possibility of visiting the arena on those days when there are no bullfights. Sightseeing takes place with a guide (entrance every 20 minutes). Additionally, you can take a free audio guide in 9 languages. During this tour, you will visit a small Bullfighting Museum, which exhibits a collection of costumes (including a purple cape painted by Picasso), portraits and posters. You can also visit the chapel where bullfighters pray before going to the arena, and you can also enter the arena itself.
Bullfight Museum – admission tickets and visiting hours:
You can buy tickets directly at the museum, but during the season there are long queues, so please allow extra time (30-60 minutes).
From November to March, the museum is open from 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. In other months, it is open until 9.00 p.m. On those days, when bullfights take place, the museum is open until 3.00 p.m.
Admission costs 10 euros, and the visit lasts about 45-55 minutes. You can find more information on the website of the bullfighting arena.
The trip to the museum is very interesting. I recommend it to anyone who would like to learn more about this part of Spanish culture.
The Golden Tower
To this day, no one knows where its name comes from. Is it from gold-painted ceramic tiles that once adorned the building? Or did it come from the precious metal that was stored in it after being brought from the colonies?
It is known, however, that it originated in 1221. At that time, it was one of 166 towers created in the entire defence system of the Moors. Between the Golden Tower and its twin (no longer existing) tower on the other side of the Guadalquivir River, there was a chain blocking the entrance to the port. All ships coming back from the New World had to stop here, and all captains had to pay taxes on imported goods. This has made Sevilla a rich city.
Today, a small Maritime Museum has a few antique maps, navigational instruments, and old documents.
The Golden Tower – admission tickets and visiting hours:
You can visit the tower Tuesday to Friday from 9.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. On weekends from 10.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m. The admission ticket costs 3 euros.
More information is available here: Torre del Oro.
The Guadalquivir River
A walk along the Guadalquivir River is a great way to relax and unwind. Both sides of the river have a walking path. A particularly nice stretch runs between the San Telmo Bridge (where the Golden Tower stands) and the Triana Bridge. On the Arenal side, along the path of Christopher Columbus, there is a pedestrian promenade and a bicycle path. From the side of the Triana district, charming nooks, narrow streets and a food market wait for us. It is worth visiting this district and walking along Pureza Street.
Triana
Triana is Sevilla’s most popular and colourful district. Low-rise buildings, flowered balconies and small patios lined with colourful ceramic tiles are characteristic of this district. There are numerous bars and taverns.
From the top of the Izabela II Bridge, which connects Triana with the left bank of Sevilla, you can see the Castle Museum of Saint George (Castillo de San Jorge). It is a remnant of the Spanish Inquisition headquarters. The Inquisition occupied the castle for over 300 years (1481-1785) and acted in the name of defending the Catholic faith. The castle also had a court and a famous Andalusian prison. Today, part of the castle ruins was adapted into the Food Market (Mercado de Triana), built here in 1823. There is also a small museum. Unfortunately, the castle ruins contain few remains from the time of the Inquisition. However, its museum offers an interactive way to explore the site, with an interesting audio-visual presentation.
The museum is open from Monday to Friday from 11.00 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. On weekends, it is open from 10.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. Free entrance!
More information is available on the website of the Andalusia promotion office.
Palace of San Telmo
This magnificent palace (Palacio San Telmo) is one of the most impressive buildings in Sevilla. It is also one of the best examples of the Baroque style in the city. It is located south of the city centre, between Hotel Alfonso XIII and the Guadalquivir River. The big renovation, which took 10 years and cost over 40 million euros, ended in 2010. It is one of the city’s greatest monuments today. Currently, the palace is the seat of the President of the Regional Government of Andalusia (Junta de Andalucía).
The San Telmo Palace was built in 1682 as a home for the children of orphaned sailors. It was later transformed into a maritime academy, training pilots, navigators, and high-ranking officers. The palace was named San Telmo (Saint Elmo), after the patron saint of sailors. The Academy later became a royal palace, with private estates extending to Maria Luisa Park.
Unfortunately, the palace is open to visitors only on pre-arranged group entries, available only in Spanish. Currently, it is also not open to visitors in its internal courtyard. This is expected to change soon after the restoration work is complete.
Metropol Parasol
This building is relatively new, as it was completed in 2011. Since then, it has already sparked fierce debate and stirred strong emotions. One of the most controversial topics was its construction cost. The project cost over 100 million euros. The “Metropol Parasol” is said to be the most ambitious, expensive and controversial urban project in Sevilla since the World Expo ’92 exhibition.
The project was created in 2004. It was part of a search for an idea to revitalise a square in the city centre, “Plaza de la Encarnación” in Sevilla. The German architectural studio Jürgen Mayer designed it. The structure measures 150 by 70 meters and stands about 26 meters high.
What was the main aim of that project? It aimed to define the relationship between the city’s historical and contemporary parts. Metropol Parasol has become an icon of Sevilla. Described as “Big Mushrooms”, it is built of six large umbrellas and has a commercial and recreational function. It includes a market hall, cafes, and restaurants. On the roof of the structure, there is an observation deck, where you can take the elevator. There are winding sidewalks that allow you to walk around the rooftop.
This place is worth a visit. For sure, there is interesting architecture, but also beautiful views spreading from the roof to the entire city.
Metropol Parasol entrance
The entrance fee is 1,35 Euro and is open from 10.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. and from 6.00 p.m. to 12.00 p.m
More information and a detailed map of the location can be found in Metropol Parasol info.
Sevilla – where to sleep?
The best choice for an overnight stay during a few-day visit to Sevilla will be the Old Town area. It is an ideal base for all walks around the city and convenient access to most attractions.
We stayed at Hotel America, located in Plaza del Duque de la Victoria. Sevilla Cathedral, the Giralda Tower and the beautiful Santa Cruz district are a 10-minute walk away from here. A bus stop in front of the hotel provides easy access to the AVE high-speed train station. Next to the hotel, there is the El Corte Inglés shopping mall, as well as numerous bars and restaurants
The hotel rooms are very nicely decorated, spacious, and comfortable. The bathroom had a double sink and a big rain shower. Our hotel also served very tasty breakfasts, with a wide range of dishes. Room service and hotel employees were very polite, always smiling and willing to help.
It is a very good offer, suitable for demanding guests looking for comfort and peace. The upper floors of the hotel have an amazing view of the city. The price matches expectations and the standard offered. I can sincerely recommend it.
For more information, please check directly at the Sevilla Hotel America website.
Sevilla – other useful information
Laundromats
In Spain, self-service laundromats are very popular. In big cities, there are well-known network laundries; in smaller towns, you can find local self-service laundries. We planned to pack small suitcases for our journey so that we could move around easily and fast. For this purpose, we packed only for a few days, planning to visit the self-service city laundry. In Sevilla, this kind of place was a two-minute walk away from our hotel.
The laundry place was very clean and …. colourful :-). Instructions are written on the walls in Spanish and English. Many colourful pictograms and very intuitive operations.
In the laundry room, there were 4 washing machines (with different capacities) and 3 dryers.
Laundromats – how to use them?
Choose a washing machine and put there your clothes. After that, you need to approach the cash register. There, choose the number of the washing machine where you placed your laundry. You can pay in cash or by card. After payment, the washing machine you selected will start automatically. Washing powder and softening liquid are added automatically to each wash, so you don’t need to bring anything with you. You must pay for drying the same way as for laundry. It is worth checking whether 15 minutes of drying will let you take dry clothes to the hotel. We had a few things that required a second drying round.
A self-service laundry is a very convenient option for travellers. We used it perfectly during our stay in Japan and now in Spain. During the laundry process, you can go out and come back at the time shown on the washing machine panel. They also offer an ironing service. Overall, it was a very nice experience: a very clean laundromat with affordable prices. I would highly recommend this place if you are looking to do your laundry.
The price for 30 minutes of washing costs from 4 to 8 Euro, and drying (15 minutes) – is 2 Euro. The laundry room is open every day from 9.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m.
More information is available on the Sevilla laundry website.
Sevilla – quick summary
Our few-day stay in Sevilla was very pleasant. Several attractions are worth seeing. Most importantly, make time for a peaceful stroll around the city. Sevilla delights both during the day and night. Many beautiful buildings here will make you want to take a picture. Looking at them afterwards will bring you natural joy.
In the evenings, after sunset, the city comes to life. Narrow streets are filled with a crowd of strollers. Numerous restaurants and tapas bars attract customers not only with music but, above all, with the aromas of local dishes.
Evening sightseeing has a special charm and lets you discover a completely new face of the city. In the evening, the city shines with wonderful illuminations. This lets you notice details that were not visible during the day, when the sun was right in your eyes.
Sevilla is worth visiting at any time of year. A visit outside the high tourist season, however, seems more reasonable. Locals say that during hot summer days, it is impossible to get out of the house because it is too hot. I think it is worth keeping in mind when planning a trip to Andalusia.
Spain, my other posts
I encourage you as well to read my other posts about Spain:
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